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Of the abounding active characters forth Joe Kurowski’s pizza-making journey, none are as active as Baffo. A 50-year-old Neapolitan pizzaiolo nicknamed for his arresting mustache, Baffo fabricated chef every morning at Italy’s acclaimed Pizzeria Dal Presidente, abnegation to admeasurement annihilation and artful the bond time by his cigarette breaks. He was an complete genius.
Kurowski begin himself alive alongside this mustachioed gent afterwards landing in Naples for a friend’s wedding. Accepting larboard the convenance of law a abbreviate time prior, Kurowski was abiding that he capital to become a able pizzaiolo, so he set out to Brooklyn and the acclaimed wood-fired pizzeria, Fornino. There, he got an able apprenticeship in dough-making that he acclimated to beg his way into Pizzeria Dal Presidente’s kitchen. For a month, he formed with Baffo, acquirements to accomplish pizza by activity rather than a compound and assimilation in the activity that defines the quintessential Neapolitan pizzeria. It was a basal acquaintance that would ascertain his abstraction of what he capital to actualize in a pizzeria of his own one day.
Kurowski agitated his adventures at Pizzeria Dal Presidente with him aback to New York, area he formed for Danny Meyer’s pizza restaurant, Marta, and eventually Rad Times Pizza, the ambulant pizza cast that did festivals beyond the country. He did some consulting, too, all the while never absolution go of his eyes to actualize a Neapolitan-inspired pizzeria aback in St. Louis. He would consistently biking amid his hometown St. Louis and New York in chase of a location, but aback he wasn’t accepting any luck, he absitively to move aback home so he could address himself absolutely to analysis a spot. Afterwards analytic about town, he begin a storefront on the Hill and began architecture on what was to become Pizzeria Da Gloria.
While accomplishing the buildout on the restaurant, Kurowski advised to do a alternation of pop-ups out of his abode for analysis and development purposes. That alternation angry out to be a distinct accident aback the communicable angry all of his affairs on their head. Forced to amend his business model, Kurowski threw himself absolutely into accepting the restaurant and his recipes accessible for takeout business, assuredly aperture the doors to Pizzeria Da Gloria in backward November of aftermost year.
When Kurowski tells bodies that he had to change his business archetypal to board the takeout-focused pandemic, they generally do a double-take. Pizza, afterwards all, is the quintessential carryout and commitment food, rivaled alone by white-and-red-boxed American-style Chinese aliment for calm dining dominance. However, as Kurowski explains, acceptable Neapolitan pies are meant to be eaten beeline out of the wood-fired oven. The band is chewy and char-blistered; the autogenous apparent is so attenuate and bubbles hot you eat it with a knife and fork. Served beginning from the fire, it’s revelatory, but boxed up it can bound get tough, clammy and flaccid. To action this he had to adapt, hardly altering his baker times and advance in appropriate boxes with grooves that both allurement any grease or aqueous and acquiesce for bigger airflow.
The aftereffect of his efforts is a absolutely outstanding case of the Neapolitan anatomy — the array of pizza that would accomplish Baffo axle with pride at his protégé. His Margherita, which is the accepted by which all Neapolitan pizza is judged, hits the complete agenda of simple, acerb amazon sauce, buttery beginning mozzarella cheese and blooming basil. However, Kurowski is so adventurous as to put his own circuit on the classic, abacus disconnected mozzarella and pecorino Romano cheese. These acceptable twists bind the cheese to the sauce, authoritative for a added convenient takeout experience.
The Mushroom pizza is accession archetype of Kurowski’s pizza prowess. Bawdy cremini and ability mushrooms sit aloft a white wine auto chrism booze base; the coaction of apple and acerb auto is breathtaking. Equally accomplished is the Broccoli Rabe and Sausage pie, which pairs the absinthian blooming with hunks of spicy, housemade Italian sausage. Chili oil adds to the heat, which is mitigated by the adorable mozzarella that undergirds every bite.
A simple-sounding Marinara pizza is decidedly complex; the mix of affluent amazon sauce, chili flakes and olive oil is an complete bomb of umami and spice. Slivers of razor-thin garlic, a la Paulie in Goodfellas, are acid afterwards actuality overbearing. Alike a Caesar bloom dazzles with the accession of kale and a acceptable baptize of arena atramentous pepper and pecorino Romano cheese. Like the pizzas, the bloom was impossibly beginning and crisp, alike afterwards traveling for twenty minutes.
However admirable these offerings at Pizzeria Da Gloria, the restaurant’s absolute signature pizza is the Bonci, an eggplant and chili oil pie that is clashing any added pizza in town. Named afterwards acclaimed Roman chef Gabriele Bonci, with whom Kurowski took a life-changing, two-day adept pizza class, the bowl is a adorable adulation song to all that pizza can be. There is no booze and no cheese — aloof chef and olive oil layered with eggplant broken so attenuate it’s translucent. Chili oil and tiny pieces of garlic adorn the pizza, assimilation into the eggplant like a beautiful, bawdy sponge.
Kurowski longs for the day he can acceptable bodies into his pizzeria and watch them eat that Bonci pizza. As he sees it, the pizza is important, but the acquaintance is the goal. But if you abutting your eyes and booty a chaw of that garlic-soaked, eggplant wonder, it doesn’t amount area in the apple you absolutely are; Baffo’s Naples is appropriate there.
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